If your gas fireplace is not lighting, you are not alone—this is one of the most common service calls during cooler weeks in Florida. The tricky part is that the symptoms (clicking but no flame, pilot won’t stay lit, fireplace turns on then shuts off) can point to several different issues, ranging from a simple cleaning need to a failing safety component.
This guide explains the most common causes, what you can safely check at home, what you should not do, and how to get reliable, safe heat back—without guessing.
If you’re in Tampa Bay and want a professional diagnosis and repair, Swept Away Inc. can help. Call 727-596-5946 or book online at https://www.sweptawaychimney.com/.
Why your gas fireplace won’t light (the big picture)
Gas fireplaces are designed with multiple safety checks. If any one of them fails—weak sensor, dirty pilot, low power to the valve, poor airflow, blocked burner ports—the system can refuse to light or shut itself down quickly. That’s a good thing: it prevents unsafe ignition and incomplete combustion.
Most “won’t light” problems come down to one of these categories:
Fuel: gas supply issues, shutoff valves, or utility interruption
Ignition: igniter, pilot assembly, electrode, or ignition module problems
Safety sensors: thermocouple/thermopile (millivolt systems), flame sensor (IPI systems)
Airflow/venting: vent restrictions or pressure-related shutdowns
Maintenance: burner ports clogged, dusty pilot, spider webs, lint, pet hair
Controls: remote, wall switch, thermostat, batteries, or control board failure
Safety first: what to do if you smell gas
Before you troubleshoot anything, use this rule:
If you smell gas strongly
Stop trying to light the fireplace
Turn the fireplace off
If safe to do so, shut off the gas supply to the appliance
Ventilate the area
Contact your gas utility provider or a qualified technician
A faint “first-use” odor can be normal when dust burns off, but a persistent gas smell—especially with repeated ignition attempts—should be treated seriously.
Common symptoms and what they usually mean
Clicking but no flame
Most often:
weak igniter spark location
dirty pilot assembly or burner ports
low gas pressure / shutoff valve partially closed
ignition module not opening the gas valve
Pilot lights but won’t stay lit
Most often:
failing thermocouple (older systems)
weak thermopile output (millivolt systems)
dirty pilot flame not properly engulfing the sensor
drafting/airflow interference affecting the flame
Fireplace lights, then shuts off after a few seconds or minutes
Most often:
flame rectification/flame sensor issue (IPI)
weak thermopile output (millivolt)
overheating safety switch tripping
venting/airflow problem causing flame instability
No response at all (no clicking, no attempt)
Most often:
dead remote batteries / wall switch issue
tripped breaker (for systems that use household power)
control module or board issue
gas valve shut off
What you can safely check at home (no tools, no disassembly)
These steps are safe for most homeowners and can resolve a surprising number of “won’t light” calls.
Step 1: Confirm the basic controls
Check your wall switch / remote / thermostat
If you have a remote: replace batteries (even if it “kind of works”)
Verify the wall switch is on
If there’s a thermostat, confirm it’s calling for heat
Check the receiver and sync
Some fireplace remotes lose pairing after battery changes or long periods of non-use. If you have the manual, follow the re-sync steps.
Step 2: Confirm the gas supply is on
Look for the shutoff valve near the fireplace
Most shutoff valves are either:
a key valve on the wall/floor near the unit, or
a valve in the lower access compartment
As a general rule:
Parallel to the pipe = on
Perpendicular to the pipe = off
If you are unsure, do not force anything—call a technician.
Step 3: Check the breaker (if your system uses household power)
Many modern gas fireplaces use electricity for the ignition system, fan, lights, or controls. If the unit is dead:
verify the outlet has power
check the breaker if the circuit has tripped
Step 4: Make sure the glass/front is properly seated
Some units have safety switches that require the front/glass to be installed correctly. If the glass is slightly out of position, the unit may refuse to run.
Step 5: Stop cycling it repeatedly
If the fireplace clicks repeatedly without lighting:
you can flood the chamber with gas briefly and trigger a safety lockout
you can worsen a minor ignition issue into a service call
Try once or twice—then pause and call a professional.
What you should NOT do (common DIY mistakes)
Don’t “adjust” components inside the firebox
The pilot assembly, burner ports, and sensors are precision-aligned. Improper adjustment can create delayed ignition, poor combustion, or unsafe conditions.
Don’t use compressed air blindly
Blowing debris around can lodge dust into the pilot orifice, worsen ignition, or introduce debris into the gas valve area.
Don’t bypass safety switches
If a safety device is stopping ignition, it is doing its job.
The most common real causes we see (and why they happen)
Dirty pilot assembly and burner ports
Why it happens
Florida homes collect dust, pet hair, and fine debris. Add in spider webs (yes, really), and pilot flames can become weak or misdirected.
What it causes
clicking/no ignition
pilot won’t stay lit
delayed ignition “whoosh”
uneven flame pattern
The fix
A proper cleaning and inspection—done carefully, without altering critical alignment.
Weak thermopile or failing thermocouple (millivolt systems)
Why it happens
These components convert heat into a small electrical signal that keeps the gas valve open. Over time, output drops.
What it causes
pilot lights but won’t hold
fireplace starts then shuts down
intermittent operation (works one day, fails the next)
The fix
Testing millivolt output and replacing the failing component.
Flame sensing problems (IPI/electronic ignition systems)
Why it happens
Modern systems verify flame through a flame-sensing process. Dirty sensors, poor grounding, or control module issues can prevent the unit from proving flame.
What it causes
unit lights briefly then shuts down
intermittent shutdowns
repeated ignition attempts
The fix
Proper diagnostics (not guesswork), cleaning/repair, and module testing when needed.
Gas supply or pressure issues
Why it happens
Partially closed valves, regulator issues, or supply pressure problems can limit ignition.
What it causes
weak ignition
fireplace won’t light consistently
low flames or delayed ignition
The fix
Confirming supply, verifying proper valve position, and checking for pressure-related issues.
Venting and airflow issues
Why it happens
Direct-vent systems rely on a specific intake/exhaust balance. Obstructions, nest debris, or improper termination conditions can interrupt safe operation.
What it causes
shutdown after a short run
sooting (serious warning sign)
unstable flame patterns
The fix
Inspection of the venting system, termination, and safety checks.
When to call a professional (and what to expect)
Call a technician if:
you smell gas or suspect incomplete combustion
the unit repeatedly tries and fails to ignite
the pilot won’t stay lit
the fireplace lights and shuts off repeatedly
you see black soot, excessive condensation, or unusual flame behavior
What Swept Away Inc. does differently
When we service gas fireplaces, we focus on safe diagnostics, not quick guesses. We inspect, clean, and verify operation so the system starts reliably and runs safely.
You can book service here: https://www.sweptawaychimney.com/
And for inspection-related services and qualifications https://www.sweptawaychimney.com/inspections-and-qualifications/
Gas fireplace maintenance: how to prevent “won’t light” problems
Annual service is the simplest prevention
Even in Florida, gas fireplaces benefit from annual checkups because:
dust and lint accumulate inside the unit
burners and pilot assemblies clog
sensors and connections degrade
minor issues become intermittent “it works sometimes” problems
Keep the area clean
vacuum around the fireplace exterior (not inside the firebox)
keep pet beds and heavy lint sources away from the intake area
avoid storing items in the lower control compartment
FAQs: Gas fireplace not lighting
Why does my gas fireplace click but not light?
Usually ignition is attempting, but the pilot/burner is not receiving the correct fuel/air mix or the spark is not igniting the gas. Dirty pilot assemblies and weak ignition components are common causes.
Can I relight my pilot myself?
Some fireplaces are homeowner-relightable and some are not. If you have the manual and you’re comfortable following it exactly, you may be able to relight it. If it won’t stay lit, that is typically a sensor or pilot flame quality issue—call a pro.
Why does my fireplace turn on and then shut off?
That typically means the system is failing a safety verification (flame sensing/thermopile output/overheat or venting-related shutdown).
Is it dangerous to keep trying?
Repeated ignition attempts can trigger lockouts, worsen underlying ignition issues, and—if there is a venting or gas-supply problem—create unsafe conditions. Two attempts is plenty. After that, schedule service.
Service areas and booking
If you’re in the Tampa Bay area (Tampa, Hillsborough, Pinellas, St. Petersburg, Clearwater, and surrounding areas) and your gas fireplace won’t light, schedule a diagnostic service with Swept Away Inc.
Book online: https://www.sweptawaychimney.com/
Call: 727-596-5946